¿Cuba Anyone?

The Canadian-Cuban Printmaking Cultural Initiative of
Anna-Marie Larsen's One-Woman Non-Governmental Organization

Anna-Marie Larsen is a freelance Canadian journalist and curator who is organizing a printmaking and handmade paper study tour to Cuba in December. We are all invited. This fascinating project was engendered last spring when Anne-Marie was on vacation in Cuba. But let's let her tell it in her own words.

(NB: In all fairness to Anna-Marie, this account of her Cuba project is extracted from a letter which was never intended for publication. On the other hand, we liked it very much for it's enthusiasm, sincerity and altruism. We think you will, too. The plane leaves from Toronto, the special price for World Printmakers is $838 yanqui dollars. There's even a back door open for American artists to attend (see below). What are you waiting for?)

In the Beginning...

"The genesis of the study tour rests with a trip I made last February to Santiago de Cuba and Holguin. During a downtown tour of Holguin, my friend Felchi took us to the print and paper studios. These are working studios -- you cannot find them in guidebooks the way you can, say, the conservatory, where tourists are encouraged to stop by. I bought a print (FABULOUS), chatted with some artists, saw some work that was - especially technically - quite astonishing, considering that all the equipment I could see looked to be pre-revolution or older. (You can characterize the maintenance philosophy of most of Cuba as 'jerry-rig and hope').

I'm still waiting for a list of what is in the studios, but I recall lithography & screen prints, as well as mono prints and woodblocks. In particular, I saw some woodblock work that is very accomplished. Artists are limited by the availability of materials, which is why, for example, you can wonder over what seems like an affinity for a blue-green palette in a body of work, even start thinking there's something symbolic going on, only to learn that there hasn't been any red ink around in six months. The print studios are quite large and airy. There's a courtyard with table and chairs, very inviting for socializing. Some but not all of the paper they work with is banana paper and I do not know the source of their other materials.

Cuban-Style Hospitality, Banana Paper
We tripped up the block to the paper studio and were given a tour by Jimmy, the director. Paper there is made with banana fibre, and hung to dry on clotheslines on the coarse cotton cloths they screen is couched to -- quite unlike the Japanese methods I used to practice, and ditto for rag paper -- so it is actually quite textured when dry. Apparently, they are able to remove enough cellulose when preparing the fibre that the paper is considered acceptable from an archival perspective. It is also sized though I have no information about the material used to size it. The paper studio also does hand bookbinding and has a publishing sideline whereby special editions of texts by local poets and writers are illustrated and hand bound. Texts are printed using a wonderful antique letterpress, allegedly the oldest in the Americas.
You see what these guys are up to and can't help but wonder what they would do if they had some modern equipment.

Paper making in Holguin. 

On Goes the Light!
The incident that made the whole thing 'gel' for me happened at our next stop, at a church where Holguin artists were hanging a group show. In chatting with one of them, he told me that it was very important to get art books and magazines to them and, for me, the light switch hit the on position. (This also explains why Felchi had been adamant that I leave the copy Art in America I had been reading on the plane.) Cuban's are phenomenally literate people, and while you can wag some very legitimate fingers at Castro for lots of things, he also deserves credit for developing an education system that is enviable, if you discount the fact that all ideas but Marxist ones are disallowed. I mean, the literacy rate there is in something like the high 90 percentile, incredible for a developing country. If you go in a library you will find beautiful musty art books with deteriorating bindings; clearly none have been added since before the revolution. So new information is precious.

And Miguel, it seems to me that the renaissance Cuban music is now experiencing is very much due to the closed nature of Cuban society - the music has in fact developed it's richness specifically because it has been left on it's own. No cross-pollination, if you will. But visual art has different needs and responds differently to social stimulus. Since the revolution, the incubator for art has been locked. In that context, the last abundant period of new ideas from outside was the fifties. Artists are so hungry for information and ideas that I actually feel that I'd be negligent as a caring person if I did not do something to help.

That's kinda it. I got home, told a few people that I had this idea about taking Canuck artists to Cuba, got some positive responses, decided to go for it. Because Canada's foreign policy is a pro-Cuban one and because so many Canadians travel to Cuba for winter sunshine there is a high level of interest and awareness in that country. Cuban music is very much in vogue here, though we know very little about their contemporary visual arts, or theatre or writing, for that matter. Because I've organized conferences and trips when I worked in galleries, I have been able to use that experience for this project.

The Cuban Response
Response from my Cuban contacts was immediate and overwhelmingly positive. What I have been very clear about from point one is that this is a trip that must benefit both partners. I don't want to pop in with a group of artists who displace those who work in these studios, so the Cuban authorities had to okay that level of contact. (When you undertake any ventures like this, your partner is not the studio but the Cuban gov't.) It's also why we are scheduling artist talks, studio visits and collaborative opportunities. And why things like meals are arranged to be shared by both groups of artists. Or that when we travel on studio/museum visits, all the artists do this together.

So equitable contact and exchange of ideas has been, for me, a consistent part the negotiations I have undertaken. The Praga Press people found out about the trip because I put them on my mailing list for my first brochure, and they kindly asked if they could do a newsletter piece on it.

You then contact me via that newsletter piece. I'm doing this as part of my practice as a freelance curator and arts writer. I'm not going to make any money though I am hoping to have the costs of advertising, etc., recouped. I've priced the trip anticipating a minimum of eight artists to make it 'fly'. We can, however, easily accommodate twice that number. While I definitely need full payment before we go, I can arrange payment schedules if needed. In USD, the trip is $838. before Oct. 27 and $883 after."

A Cuban pressman operates what is
allegedly the oldest letterpress in the Americas.

The (Back) Door is Open for Americans
By the way, did you know that Americans CAN enter Cuba without having their actual passport stamped? When you give the custom's dude your passport, they slip a small piece of paper into it's pages and stamp that so you can remove it before re-entering the States. Cubans seem to LOVE doing this for obvious reasons - and they're fully cognizant of the risks an American is under to visit Cuba, and, thus, pretty good about telling them how much they appreciate the visit. The Americans I've met have flown from Toronto or Montreal, or from cities in Mexico. This is the first trip of it's type to Holguin and I've not heard of another like it ever going to Cuba, though it's eminently possible that one has happened that I don't know about.

The artists that are going from here have been asked to take two pieces of their work for an exhibit that will hang while we are there at Centro de Arte, Sala Electa Arenal. Trust me, this will be a major event in Holguin and the show is going to receive a lot of attention. (I already know that that opening will be THE event of the season.) There is also going to be some sort of small public show of work made by artists while in Cuba, though I won't know anything about logistics/details for this until my November visit to the Biennale. Probably a one-day thing before we dash to the airport.

A Special Offer for World Printmakers
Tell you what: I've set the trip up so that those who register early will receive a small discount. Why not post this with an add-on? Let's say something like, if you wish to register after Oct. 27, and you mention that you learned about the trip on the World Printmakers site, you pay the pre-deadline price, which is $838 US/$1398 Can. To make your reservation just fire off an email to Anna-Marie Larsen.

 

The Itinerary

Day 1 Sat. Feb. 17 2:10 pm o Meet for departure at Toronto's Pearson International Airport, Terminal 3. The exact location where our group will meet at the departures terminal will be forwarded to you nearer our departure date; 4:10. Depart Toronto, 4:10 pm, Royal Airlines Flight #68; 8:00. Arrive Holguin Airport; 9:00 o Travel from airport to printmaking studio; Evening reception including introduction of Canadian & Cuban artists, officials, studio personnel, interpreters, et al; outline of week's schedule & other relevant information; leave work for exhibition at the print studio. Artists delivered to respective accommodations.

Day 2 Sun. Feb. 18 8 - 8:30 am o Coffee & social at exhibition space; 8:30 -12:00. Artists oriented to print & paper studios; concurrent. Gather, label & install exhibition of work by Canadian artists; 12:00 - 1:30 pm o Lunch in courtyard of print studio; concurrent. Presentation on the general history of Cuban art and/or the history of art making in Holguin (approx. 45 mins.); 1:30 - 3:00. Gallery TBA: group critique of work in Cuban exhibitions with participating artists; 3:00 - 5:30. Work on individual projects at print or paper studios 5:30 - 7:30. Supper at paladares or other site; 7:30 - 9:30. Opening reception for concurrent exhibitions of Canadian & Cuban artists work.

Day 3 Mon. Feb. 19 8- 8:30am o Coffee & social at print studio; 8:30 - 10. Visit to an artist's studio or gallery or museum; 10 - 12 o Gallery TBA: group critique of work in Canadian exhibition with participating artists; 12-1:30 pm o Lunch in courtyard of print studio; concurrent. Speaker about the 'business of art in Cuba', i.e., how Cuban artists exhibit inside & outside the country, availability of materials and supplies, sales, system of education & training for artists, union & other professional associations, how foreign artists can have work shown in Cuba, how to invite Cuban artists to exhibit outside of Cuba; 1:30 - 5:30 o Work on individual projects at print or paper studios; concurrent. Optional demonstrations; 5:30 - 7:30. Free time & supper on your own; 7:30 - 9:30. Canadian & Cuban artists present lectures/demonstrations about their work.

Day 4 Tue. Feb. 20 8- 8:30 am o Coffee & social at print studio 8:30-12. Visit to an artist's studio or gallery or museum; 12-1:30 pm. Lunch in courtyard of print studio concurrent. Speaker about the 'business of art' in Canada; 1:30 - 5:30. Work on individual projects at print or paper studios; concurrent. Optional demonstrations; 5:30 - 7:30. Supper at paladares or other site; 7:30 - 9:30. Canadian & Cuban artists present lectures/demonstrations about their work.

Day 5 Wed. Feb. 21 8- 8:30 am. Coffee & social at print studio; 8:30 - 12. Work on individual projects at print or paper studios; 12-1:30 pm. Lunch in courtyard of print studio; concurrent lecture, topic TBA; 1:30 - 5:30 o Cuban & Canadian artists pair to create collaborative projects; 5:30 - 7:30. Free time & supper on your own; 7:30 - 9:30. Canadian & Cuban artists present lectures/demonstrations about their work.

Day 6 Thur. Feb. 22 8- 8:30 am o Coffee & social at print studio; 8:30 - 12. Work on individual projects at print or paper studios; 12-1:30 pm. Lunch in courtyard of print studio; concurrent lecture, topic TBA; 1:30 - 5:30 o Work on collaborative projects; 5:30 - 7:30. Free time & supper on your own; 7:30 - 9:30. Canadian & Cuban artists present lectures/demonstrations about their work; critique & discussion of collaboration.

Day 7 Fri. Feb. 23 8- 8:30 am o Coffee & social at print studio; 8:30 - 4:30 pm. Trip to the beach; Picnic lunch; 4:30 - 5:30. Return from beach; 5:30 - 8. Free time & supper on your own; 8:00. Big party & opening at Taller de Grabado of mini-exhibition of work created during the week.

Day 8 Sat. Feb. 24 8- 8:30 am. Coffee & social print studio; 8:30 - 12. Studio wrap-up; 12-1:30 pm. Lunch in courtyard of print studio; 1:30. Last chance to tan while attending a baseball game or taking a carriage tour of Holguin that includes a visit to the amusement park.. Supper on your own; 6:30. Meet at print studio with luggage; 7:00. Travel from print studio to Holguin Airport; 8:50. Depart Holguin Airport on Royal Airlines flight #69; 12:30 am o Arrive Pearson International Airport.

Itinerary Details + Trivia

We will meet for departure at 2:10 pm on Sat., Feb. 17, 2001, at Toronto's Pearson International Airport, Terminal 3. The exact location of where our group will meet at the departures terminal will be forwarded to you nearer our departure date. You will need a valid passport. You will not require a visa. A Cuban tourist card will be issued to you at the airport. You may check two pieces of luggage with a combined weight of XX, as well as one carry-on bag. At Holguin Airport, a customs official will stamp your passport and collect your tourist card. All luggage including your hand luggage will be x-rayed and you may be asked to open your bags for inspection.

Accommodation will be at casas particulares, the Cuban equivalent of a bed and breakfast. Your host will serve you breakfast each morning before you leave for the studios. One room will be assigned each study/tour participant unless you specifically request on the registration form that you want to share a room. We cannot guarantee whether double or single beds will be available, though we will endeavor to accommodate specific requests for these. Linens are provided but do bring your own towel. Showers, not baths, are the rule. Generally, water temperature is tepido.


A street in Old Santiago, and one of the finest '54 Studebakers on earth!

Study/Tour fees include accommodation; all breakfasts, morning coffee, lunches and receptions; 2 suppers; museum admissions; beach travel; travel to and from Holguin airport; lectures; studio fees. No exhibition fees will be paid. Cuban departure tax of $15usd per person not included. Where the itinerary states "supper on your own", participants can explore government restaurants (expect to pay in American dollars), paladares (state-licensed restaurants in private homes where you pay in American dollars or pesos), hotel dining rooms (often - notoriously - for tourists only), and vendors, cafes and mercados throughout the city. Chicken, pork, rice and beans are staples. Coffee is Cuban-grown. Water is potable and also widely available bottled. Vegetarians are still treated as novelties but accommodated with smiles. When offered, always say yes to ice cream.

Once in Holguin, we will make a trip to el banco to exchange American dollars or travelers cheques for pesos. Note: for smoothest service, it is recommended that you not purchase American Express travelers cheques. Carry a money belt as casas particulares are generally not equipped with safes.

The Artists Union of Cuba has generously offered gallery space in Holguin for an exhibition of work by Canadian study/tour participants. Concurrent exhibitions by the artists who work at Taller de Grabado and Taller de Papel Manufacturado as well as group critiques, opportunity for collaboration, artist talks and demonstrations have been planned to foster dialogue.

Remember to forward label information for the two works you are taking to Cuba. If not included I will hound you so that I can make labels for the pieces you intend to take. It is recommended that you make ease of packing a priority when selecting pieces for exhibition in Cuba. Work must travel with you in your luggage. Any additional shipping or insurance of those works outside that normally provided by the air carrier is the artist's responsibility.

The itinerary includes talks and demonstrations by both Canadian and Cuban artists. Be sure to indicate on the registration form if you would like to give a talk or demonstrate a technique used in your work. o I am looking for a slide projector that can be used to illustrate these talks, and that can be left in Holguin for artists there to use. Please let me know if you know of a projector that could be donated for this.

It is recommended that you bring materials for making work with you. Basic artist materials are available for purchase in Holguin though availability is subject to change. Studio space is provided.

Equipment available at Taller de Grabado includes: Sorry, I keep hoping that I will receive a complete list of equipment from Holguin, and will forward registrants this info when it does arrive. Woodblock, screenprinting, and lithography are practiced, though I cannot currently supply info on size and types of presses and other equipment.

Equipment available at Taller de Papel Manufacturado includes: As above. The Paper Studio does have a fabulous letterpress manufactured in 1815 that is the only one in the hemisphere of it's type and vintage still in use. Small vats and beaters are used in the studio. Paper is made from banana fibre. I have no information about of bookbinding equipment.

Please indicate on your registration form if you require information about purchasing medical insurance and this will be forwarded to you under separate cover. Generally, travel in Cuba does not require special vaccinations. However, it is recommended that you ask your general practitioner to confirm this.

Reminder of important dates: Oct. 27 - Last date to book & receive a discount. Dec. 01 - Last day to cancel & receive a refund If you cannot remit full payment at once, please contact me to make arrangements for a payment schedule.

This study/tour is organized Anna-Marie Larsen with the assistance of Frederick Travel, 851 Fischer-Hallman Road, Kitchener, who advise me to remind you that ALL PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT ANY TIME. updated Oct 4/00. For reservations contact Anna-Marie Larsen.

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